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NAP Hellrazors not getting sharp


dbHunterNY

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So I've tried multiple times to get a good edge on some NAP hellrazors I have. If you don't know what they are thinking G5 Montec 3 blade cut on contact broadhead. I'm laying them flat on either a wetstone or wet sand paper on a very flat surface and hitting each of three sides. Removing material I believe due to removing colored marker on the edges. maybe the angle is so big that i need to use lower grit for more bite. they're okay and cleanly cut through paper but not what i'd consider sharp. My other heads I've gotten scary sharp.

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5 minutes ago, BowmanMike said:

Not sure what to tell you,I have heard of people not liking montecs for the same reason,couldn't get them scary sharp.

i sharpen and strop my Rage broadhead blades and others like Magnus blades. I've seen VAP heads that are same design be sharpened to shaving sharp. I'm thinking i'm maybe just polishing the sides and not getting to an apex. heading to the store once i leave work to get more aggressive emery paper.

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I dont sharpen arrowheads but have done a significant amount of woodworking tools, so take it as you will…..

If I understand this correctly the included angle of the cutting edge is not very narrow, meaning the edges also form the tip on a 3 blade head.

I dont use silicone carbide wet paper for anything that needs a great edge, more for flatting machined surfaces say the bottom of a good hand plane.. On a small scale that paper does give way even on a hard surface causing a leading edge to roll the angle. Glue it down and the glue layer acts like a sponge underneath and also gives way.

On difficult alloys, that dont respond well to a japanese water stone I go to either diamond, or ceramic (which lately has become my favorite at honing) both water lube; I no longer own anything oil, makes a mess and is no longer needed.

The temptation to go coarse so you feel a bite, and think is sharper is just leaving microscopic saw tooth edge that have the feel of “sharpness” because you saw through the paper and feel the teeth.

 

Edited by Dinsdale
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On 10/4/2023 at 5:19 PM, Dinsdale said:

I dont sharpen arrowheads but have done a significant amount of woodworking tools, so take it as you will…..

If I understand this correctly the included angle of the cutting edge is not very narrow, meaning the edges also form the tip on a 3 blade head.

I dont use silicone carbide wet paper for anything that needs a great edge, more for flatting machined surfaces say the bottom of a good hand plane.. On a small scale that paper does give way even on a hard surface causing a leading edge to roll the angle. Glue it down and the glue layer acts like a sponge underneath and also gives way.

On difficult alloys, that dont respond well to a japanese water stone I go to either diamond, or ceramic (which lately has become my favorite at honing) both water lube; I no longer own anything oil, makes a mess and is no longer needed.

The temptation to go coarse so you feel a bite, and think is sharper is just leaving microscopic saw tooth edge that have the feel of “sharpness” because you saw through the paper and feel the teeth.

 

i get the angle isn't the same as other heads. i'm only going backwards so i can't see rolling the edge. i wonder if i'm taking enough material off to get to an edge apex. most of what i've used is pretty fine. going to give it another go this weekend. not using silicone carbide wet paper. its substrate is something fancier for metal it's just not coming to me right now.

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On 10/6/2023 at 5:16 PM, Stubborn1vt said:

There are many heads, including ones with replaceable blades, that aren't sharp out of the package.  Sounds like there is something goofy with the steel.  Are you planning on sticking with these broadheads or is it more of a puzzle you're trying to unravel?

just something i'm trying to figure out. i've got close to a dozen i likely bought on clearance some time ago. I've had one on as a varmint or small game arrow while on stand but haven't used them on deer. For fixed blades I've always used other 3 fixed blade heads i can take the blades out and sharpen or strop if need be. anything else is two blade Rage mechanical with titanium ferrule or fixed like a Magnus Stinger depending on which bow setup i'm using.

As an update I started with 320 grit then worked up to a wetstone at 1000 grit and they seem to be getting sharper. i think it might just be the steel and my wetstone i'm using don't like each other. lol cheaper stainless and cheaper wetstone that loads up easily.

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